"Verana is rustic yet sophisticated. It's designed for travelers with a sense of adventure and appreciation of tranquility and natural beauty." Like us. There are eight houses - at no time during our stay were they full. The most guests were 12. The fewest, 6.
To get to the resort you first take a taxi about 45 minutes down the coast to the village of Boca de Tomatlan, then jump in a Verana boat that departs twice a day for the 30 minute ride to the resort and village of Yelapa.
We got to Boca about 45 minutes before the departure so had time to have a beer (Will) and water (me) while we watched the hustle beach bustle. Because it serves as a "port" for small boats transporting people and goods to fishing villages along the coast, it was heavy on the bustle. And stray dogs. Not too many gringos though. Unless they were expats.
Admittedly, we were a tad confused on the whole "find the Verana" boat procedure, meaning we whispered between each other a lot ("Is this what we're supposed to do? Just sit here? When do we leave? Do you see the boat? Are they going to find us?") while enjoying the view. Fortunately, the waiter overheard our whispers and pointed out the boat, the driver and informed us that we were waiting for 4 more guests. Whispers abated.At 4:15 we hopped into a small open air boat with our beastly black rolly bag (SOOOO beach inappropriate) and four other guests and bounced across the Pacific swells to Verana's private dock.
Upon arrival Kent, the hotel host, greeted us and lead us up the first of many stone steps to the spa and lunch restaurant, where freshly mixed/squeezed guava agua fresca was waiting. (Did I mention this poor guy, a true beast of burden, was subject to hoofing it up the mountainous hill with the black rolly bag? See it there on the left? I tipped him with a brow scratch.)
Then we started the first of many treks up to the resort. Half way up there's this super heavy gate, complete with a sign telling people it's the end of the trail - Verena property - and to keep out. Effective, I'm sure.
Here is a small taste of the steps. Lucky for us, the weather was perfect. Between 78-80 degrees during the day, not humid, and with a hint of a breeze. I was huffin' and puffin' by the end but not dripping. We wondered aloud about unfit guests... They explained that during the booking process they try to make clear the physical exertion required (not something I remembered) and if necessary, will keep a burden beast around to haul the fatties (or oldies) up and down. And it's not as though you could avoid the steps. To get lunch, you had to go all the way down - and with lunch being one of the top three meals of the day - down you went.Ultimately though, the physical exertion, though forced, meant for a more enjoyable holiday. We had more energy, slept better and laughed more. Add heat to the mix and this mama bird might be singin' a different tune, but while there, it was perf.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, each morning coffee, tea and warm muffins were deposited outside our door. We alternated between enjoying these on our patio, looking over the ocean, or in our bedroom, overlooking the jungle.Three of the five mornings we joined either Semara or Gabrielle in the pool palapa for yoga. Will loved it (today he checked a yoga book out of the library) and I found it a great way to start the day - I was so relaxed I was only mildly annoyed by Semara's tendency to call me Mama Bear.
Breakfast followed yoga.
Pool (or an excursion) followed breakfast.
Lunch at the ocean-side cafe followed our pool/excursion time.Reading and napping followed lunch. Our vacation reads (minus First Time Parents and Happiest Baby on the Block) - all of which I would highly recommend - included Cutting for Stone, The True Meaning of Smeck Day, Unbroken and Room.
Speaking of rooms, besides the amazing natural environs, the two-bedroom Jungle Suite wasn't too shabby either. (And yes - these are photos I took. Not fancy ones from the website.)
From the resort website: "Verana was conceived, designed and is solely owned by Heinz Legler and Veronique Lievre, a former movie set builder and set decorator respectively. Verana can safely lay claim to the adjective handmade. “Everything had to be brought up hill either by hand or mule,” says Lievre who tricked out the rooms with an eclectic mix of found objects, artisan-made furniture, Mexican handicrafts, and simply lined modernist pieces and used a color palette inspired from the surroundings. “I wanted to create an environment that was harmonious with the natural setting, yet also functional and comfortable,’ says Lievre"Our pool "go-to" spot.
And of course, the staff was amazing. Gabby (lunch server and yoga instructor), Mookai (resident Boxer), Lalu (lunch chef), Semara (yoga instructor and masseusse), Lauren (desk host) and Kent (all-around host), Dylan (bartender and activity guide) and Carlos (activity guide and evening server).
Thanks for everything, guys.
(And for those of us looking for an adventure - Verana is always hiring.)









